Monday, October 31, 2011

Debriefing the Wine Dinner

As we were settling into our seats at Dudley's Farmhouse Grille, meeting some folks for the first time, a friend asked me if I was nervous. Pausing for a few heartbeats, reaching for that familiar butterfly stomach and hot forehead, I surprisingly replied "no."  Don't get me wrong here, I needed a drink, stat, but confidence was quite the snuggler for the evening.  Having successfully, and nonsuccessfully unfortunately, conducted many wine dinners in the past, this first in a new home environment felt, well, right.

I took the remainder of the weekend to ponder this revelation.  A little background information here:  I can be intense and I'm sure I've scared away many many people. It's a wonder the Hubs has stayed around this long.  Anyhoo, the one quite important realization I've made in the past few months is that shit happens and how we weather it defines us as human beings.  So, all the planning in the world can never guarantee success, it can certainly help, but when so many personalities are involved, it's just impossible.  So in that moment when my friend asked if I was nervous I realized that although there is some anxiety about talking in front of a group, I also realized that the dinner really meant something to me:  I was promoting Virginia food and wine.

Thankfully, no "shit" actually did happen and the night went rather well.  Courtney Mailey's cider was breathtaking, tart and fizzy with quite a bit of depth:  appley and leesy. Her blog is quite comprehensive, the consummate cider maker: http://mailey.com/blog/

First course was the butternut squash, apple and applewood smoked bacon soup paired with the 2010 Annefield Vineyards Viognier.  This was quite the favourite pairing for most guests.  The tart acid cut through the richness of the soup, the smoky bacon playing nicely with the distinct smokiness of the viognier and the fruit of the wine connecting with the background flavour of apples. Yum.

The only time I had elk was more than fifteen years ago at the home of an avid hunter.  Insert the word "gamey" here.  Shiver.  Jim, the chef, assured me that would not be the case with his elk and pear sausage with pear chutney. I paired this dish with my friend Angela's 2009 A Tribute to Grace Grenache from Santa Barbara Highlands.  (I know, shame on me, it's not a Virginian.)  Most wines would have paired fabulously with the sausage but I was concerned with the chutney which is sweet, tart and a little spicy.  Well, that sums up Angela and her wine superbly so that's my reasoning.  Throw in a meaty quality and I loved the pairing.

The main course was jumbo quail stuffed with Foie Gras, black truffles, smoked bacon and fresh herbs and frankly the only Virginia wine that could hold its own is the 2010 Ankida Ridge Pinot Noir.  An absolute gem of a wine that sung next to the quail.  The minerality and earthiness danced with the truffles and herbs while the cherry scents awakened the quail wonderfully. Christine and Dennis Vrooman, owners and winemakers are an absolute joy to be around.  Their enthusiasm and vitality was contagious!  Next visit will surely be to their vineyard.

The goat cheese cheesecake rocked it!  Light, delicate, the perfect combination of richness and sweetness.  I had a wonderful time.  I caught up with old friends, made new ones and most importantly I'm hoping that this dinner was the first in a series of wine dinners showcasing Virginia wine.  More to come:  http://www.wineva.net/


Happy Halloween!
Tina

some spectacular websites to visit:
http://www.annefieldvineyards.com/
http://gracewinecompany.com/
http://ankidaridge.com/
http://www.dudleysfarmhousegrille.com/





Thursday, October 20, 2011

We'll Eat, Drink and Discuss the Virginia Wine Industry!

 
Dudley’s Farmhouse Autumn Wine Dinner

 
Courtney Mailey Cider
Butternut Squash, Apple and Applewood Smoked Bacon Soup
2010 Annefield Vineyards Viognier
Elk and Pear Sausage with Pear Chutney
2009 A Tribute to Grace Grenache
Jumbo Quail stuffed with Foie Gras, Black Truffles, Smoked Bacon
and Fresh Herbs
2010 Ankida Ridge Pinot Noir
Goat Cheese Cheesecake, Cheese sourced from Cherry Glen Farms, Md
Coffee and Tea

Some of you have asked to bring bottles to share toward the end of the evening and by all means please do so.
James Kennedy, Chef and Owner
Dudley’s Farmhouse Grille
7816 Richmond Road Toano, Virginia 23168 / 757-566-1157
 
Please call for reservations.
Saturday 29 October 2011
Six o’clock

65 – all inclusive

Saturday, October 15, 2011

We’ll eat, drink and talk about the Virginia wine industry.

Hi Friends,

Many years back the Hubs and I happened to be in the Pacific Northwest and we found ourselves making reservations at a small, world-renowned farm-to-table, which served food and wine as theatre: the entire staff passionate and engaging.  There were only two seats left, indeed, at a communal table.  New to us, but being adventurous, we accepted and this experience changed the way I approach the table.

I recently found this similar passion and engaging personality with Jim Kennedy, Chef and owner at Dudley's Farmhouse Grille, just outside Williamsburg.  It's not often that you find a Chef, let alone a business owner, so open and generous with his food and wine. His Farmhouse is a feast for the senses, both intellectual and palate-pleasing.

I've touted the Farmhouse as a treasure to many folks, including many in the wine and food industry who have expressed a desire to participate in a communal dinner on Saturday, 29 October.  I'm inviting you all, as friends, local business owners and lovers of convivial conversation and delicious food and wine to join the "industry" folk to round out Jim's Table.

I hope to see you all at Jim's Table.  Menu and particulars below.

Cheers!
Tina

Dudley’s Farmhouse Autumn Wine Dinner


Butternut Squash, Apple and Applewood Smoked Bacon Soup
Sparkling
Elk and Pear Sausage with Pear Chutney
Rhone
Jumbo Quail stuffed with Foie Gras, Black Truffles, Smoked Bacon
and Fresh Herbs
Pinot Noir
Goat Cheese Cheesecake, Cheese sourced from Cherry Glen Farms, Md
Coffee and Tea

Wines TBD
Some of you have asked to bring bottles to share toward the end of the evening and by all means please do so.
James Kennedy, Chef and Owner
Dudley’s Farmhouse Grille
7816 Richmond Road Toano, Virginia 23168 / 757-566-1157
Please call for reservations.
Saturday 29 October 2011
Six o’clock

65 – all inclusive

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Are We the Sum of what We Drink?


When I first met the Hubs, I was involved with student government in college and I needed some printing done.  He worked at the printshop and agreed to help.  He had been meeting with friends on the opposite side of campus so he had to haul ass to make our meeting on time.  (He's going to kill me for relating this but, hey, it's for the greater wine good.) He was a little sweaty, but not that yucky "man stink." It was quite pleasant, earthy, natural body scent that was his alone. That scent memory remains with me and now that I have the ability to express the scent, because of my wine studies, the true description is a recently mown spring meadow mingled with ramps pulled fresh out of the soil and a hint of truffle.


Autumn, to me, is full of the craziest scents, much like forest floor leaf mold, rain on stone, herbs, wet earth, baking spices, apples and that gnarly, raw pumpkin astringency as the poor things are smashed on  mischief night.  So just for kicks and giggles I made a list of some of my favourite scents:

armpit
st joseph aspirin
basil
celery
puppy feet
fresh dirt
boxwood
cedar
raw pastry dough
dirt
smoke
wet stone
leaf mold
sawdust
fresh mown grass
gasoline out of the pump
a country field—sweet earth and green
ocean brine salinity
moth balls

I was wondering if we are the sum of what we drink? Do I drink the types of wines that I do because I like the above scents?  I suppose I could go into Phenol compounds (derived from grape parts and floating yeasts) that chemically are scents which, as individuals we can recognize.  However, what I'm most interested in, is how we recognize these chemical compounds and then effectively communicate what our beaks are sniffing.  So if I like the above scents, does that mean I'm more likely to like wines that carry those particular phenol compounds?  Let's check out a few:

armpit:  remember the Hubs story?  that's a resounding yes because I love Burgundy.  (Jacques Seysses, owner of Domaine Dujac, speaks of certain Burgundies smelling like a mistresses' armpit.)

gasoline:  I'm getting dizzy just thinking of the myriad of Rieslings I've enjoyed!

smoke: Some Loire Valley (and I haven't met a Valley wine that I didn't like) Sauvignon Gris smell of smoke, just like some Riojas.

basil:  Albarino has a distinct basil quality for me, as does Gruner Veltliner

dirt, puppy feet:  Rhone anyone? Why yes, I do.

I could go on with the rest but I think you get the picture.  Humans can recognize 10,000 different odors. However, no two people sense anything the same.  Does this mean anything?  Well, it could mean that I have a large memory pool so I'm able to match a wine with my scent memory.  Or, it could mean I drink way too much.  Either way, what I do think is that we each of us possess the ability to memory associate, which means a memory locked in our brains will surface sometimes years later due to a particular scent we experience.  Maybe the reason I detest Pinotage is because my father ran me over with his car and all I can remember is the burning scent of rubber as he accelerated.

That's a total fabrication of course, but I suppose that's my point.  I really have no memory of anything that includes rubber, the main scent of that wine, so is that the reason why I don't like it?  I don't know, it's all quite interesting though. 

What wine tastes of St Joseph aspirin?  Time to find out...

Cheers!
Tina

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Morales!!! Annefield Vineyards Harvest

I am an Autumn fanatic: just the thought of October gets me all, well, a little crazed.  It's those crisp mornings where you find yourself slipping into your warm fuzzies after months of flippies.  And the east coast big Fall change:  the closet switch.  Isn't it like a birthday or Christmas? Hey, Mr. Red Sweater, it's good to see you.  How's it hanging Macgyver-like khakis--can't wait to do some serious exploring in your sweet, many-pocketed embrace.

So best thing to do on the first of October--Annefield Vineyards Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon harvest! We arrived bright-eyed Saturday morning, a brisk 62 degrees registering on the truck's temperature gauge.  Owners Stephen Ballard and Michael Leary (and dogs) greet the handful of volunteers with coffee and croissant, amid their beautifully restored 1858 Italianate villa house which is absolutely breathtaking.


A car ride down the road and we're off to the vineyard site, tucked inside a cluster of tall trees, birds of prey calls piped in to deter the birds from devouring the grapes. A quick tutorial from the professional crew and it's time to snip--thank the wine gods we brought gloves, otherwise I'd be licking the grape juice off my fingers: that's the stuff alright. As I'm snipping (and trying desperately not to chop off a finger) I'm noticing lots of bumble bees, hornets and harvestmen (daddy long-legs), a sure sign of a healthy vineyard.  Paul Mierzejewski, vineyard consultant for Annefield was on hand of course and he commented about how "good the vines looked" compared to other vineyards around the county.  Could it be because Annefield uses biodynamic methods, namely compost teas which act as innoculating agents against pathogenic organisms.  If those aforementioned good insects are any indication, I certainly think so.

Cabernet Franc cluster
 A brief lunch respite, graciously provided by Stephen and we're back at it--finally finished with our two rows! Man are we slow. We're looking forward to the wine tasting up at the main house.  The 2010 Viognier is stunning! I knew it was a Viognier before my beak hit the glass--honeysuckle, orange blossom, almond paste and a little tobacco.  The palate confirms what my nose knew:  more of the above, a neat backbone of acid, a distinct minerality and a long finish.  Well done.  My other perennial favourite is the 2009 Cabernet Franc--pure raspberry, spice and a delicate whiff of violets.  Tannins are weighty, and the interplay between earthiness, fruit and herbs stands out. 



Annefield Tasting Room
Well, I think six plus hours at Annefield Vineyards is enough, and we say farewell for now, wine-satiated and feeling all around good--there's just a friendly, cozy vibe about the place that makes you want to curl up on a setee.  Goodnight Cooper.

 

Godspeed,
Tina