Debriefing the Wine Dinner

As we were settling into our seats at Dudley's Farmhouse Grille, meeting some folks for the first time, a friend asked me if I was nervous. Pausing for a few heartbeats, reaching for that familiar butterfly stomach and hot forehead, I surprisingly replied "no."  Don't get me wrong here, I needed a drink, stat, but confidence was quite the snuggler for the evening.  Having successfully, and nonsuccessfully unfortunately, conducted many wine dinners in the past, this first in a new home environment felt, well, right.

I took the remainder of the weekend to ponder this revelation.  A little background information here:  I can be intense and I'm sure I've scared away many many people. It's a wonder the Hubs has stayed around this long.  Anyhoo, the one quite important realization I've made in the past few months is that shit happens and how we weather it defines us as human beings.  So, all the planning in the world can never guarantee success, it can certainly help, but when so many personalities are involved, it's just impossible.  So in that moment when my friend asked if I was nervous I realized that although there is some anxiety about talking in front of a group, I also realized that the dinner really meant something to me:  I was promoting Virginia food and wine.

Thankfully, no "shit" actually did happen and the night went rather well.  Courtney Mailey's cider was breathtaking, tart and fizzy with quite a bit of depth:  appley and leesy. Her blog is quite comprehensive, the consummate cider maker: http://mailey.com/blog/

First course was the butternut squash, apple and applewood smoked bacon soup paired with the 2010 Annefield Vineyards Viognier.  This was quite the favourite pairing for most guests.  The tart acid cut through the richness of the soup, the smoky bacon playing nicely with the distinct smokiness of the viognier and the fruit of the wine connecting with the background flavour of apples. Yum.

The only time I had elk was more than fifteen years ago at the home of an avid hunter.  Insert the word "gamey" here.  Shiver.  Jim, the chef, assured me that would not be the case with his elk and pear sausage with pear chutney. I paired this dish with my friend Angela's 2009 A Tribute to Grace Grenache from Santa Barbara Highlands.  (I know, shame on me, it's not a Virginian.)  Most wines would have paired fabulously with the sausage but I was concerned with the chutney which is sweet, tart and a little spicy.  Well, that sums up Angela and her wine superbly so that's my reasoning.  Throw in a meaty quality and I loved the pairing.

The main course was jumbo quail stuffed with Foie Gras, black truffles, smoked bacon and fresh herbs and frankly the only Virginia wine that could hold its own is the 2010 Ankida Ridge Pinot Noir.  An absolute gem of a wine that sung next to the quail.  The minerality and earthiness danced with the truffles and herbs while the cherry scents awakened the quail wonderfully. Christine and Dennis Vrooman, owners and winemakers are an absolute joy to be around.  Their enthusiasm and vitality was contagious!  Next visit will surely be to their vineyard.

The goat cheese cheesecake rocked it!  Light, delicate, the perfect combination of richness and sweetness.  I had a wonderful time.  I caught up with old friends, made new ones and most importantly I'm hoping that this dinner was the first in a series of wine dinners showcasing Virginia wine.  More to come:  http://www.wineva.net/

Happy Halloween!
Tina

some spectacular websites to visit:
http://www.annefieldvineyards.com/
http://gracewinecompany.com/
http://ankidaridge.com/
http://www.dudleysfarmhousegrille.com/

We'll Eat, Drink and Discuss the Virginia Wine Industry!

 

Dudley’s Farmhouse Autumn Wine Dinner

 

Courtney Mailey Cider

Butternut Squash, Apple and Applewood Smoked Bacon Soup
2010 Annefield Vineyards Viognier

Elk and Pear Sausage with Pear Chutney
2009 A Tribute to Grace Grenache

Jumbo Quail stuffed with Foie Gras, Black Truffles, Smoked Bacon
and Fresh Herbs
2010 Ankida Ridge Pinot Noir

Goat Cheese Cheesecake, Cheese sourced from Cherry Glen Farms, Md
Coffee and Tea

Some of you have asked to bring bottles to share toward the end of the evening and by all means please do so.

James Kennedy, Chef and Owner
Dudley’s Farmhouse Grille
7816 Richmond Road Toano, Virginia 23168 / 757-566-1157

 

Please call for reservations.

Saturday 29 October 2011
Six o’clock
65 – all inclusive

We’ll eat, drink and talk about the Virginia wine industry.

Hi Friends,

Many years back the Hubs and I happened to be in the Pacific Northwest and we found ourselves making reservations at a small, world-renowned farm-to-table, which served food and wine as theatre: the entire staff passionate and engaging.  There were only two seats left, indeed, at a communal table.  New to us, but being adventurous, we accepted and this experience changed the way I approach the table.

I recently found this similar passion and engaging personality with Jim Kennedy, Chef and owner at Dudley's Farmhouse Grille, just outside Williamsburg.  It's not often that you find a Chef, let alone a business owner, so open and generous with his food and wine. His Farmhouse is a feast for the senses, both intellectual and palate-pleasing.

I've touted the Farmhouse as a treasure to many folks, including many in the wine and food industry who have expressed a desire to participate in a communal dinner on Saturday, 29 October.  I'm inviting you all, as friends, local business owners and lovers of convivial conversation and delicious food and wine to join the "industry" folk to round out Jim's Table.

I hope to see you all at Jim's Table.  Menu and particulars below.

Cheers!
Tina

Dudley’s Farmhouse Autumn Wine Dinner

Butternut Squash, Apple and Applewood Smoked Bacon Soup
Sparkling

Elk and Pear Sausage with Pear Chutney
Rhone

Jumbo Quail stuffed with Foie Gras, Black Truffles, Smoked Bacon
and Fresh Herbs
Pinot Noir

Goat Cheese Cheesecake, Cheese sourced from Cherry Glen Farms, Md
Coffee and Tea

Wines TBD

Some of you have asked to bring bottles to share toward the end of the evening and by all means please do so.

James Kennedy, Chef and Owner
Dudley’s Farmhouse Grille
7816 Richmond Road Toano, Virginia 23168 / 757-566-1157

Please call for reservations.

Saturday 29 October 2011
Six o’clock
65 – all inclusive

Are We the Sum of what We Drink?

When I first met the Hubs, I was involved with student government in college and I needed some printing done.  He worked at the printshop and agreed to help.  He had been meeting with friends on the opposite side of campus so he had to haul ass to make our meeting on time.  (He's going to kill me for relating this but, hey, it's for the greater wine good.) He was a little sweaty, but not that yucky "man stink." It was quite pleasant, earthy, natural body scent that was his alone. That scent memory remains with me and now that I have the ability to express the scent, because of my wine studies, the true description is a recently mown spring meadow mingled with ramps pulled fresh out of the soil and a hint of truffle.

Autumn, to me, is full of the craziest scents, much like forest floor leaf mold, rain on stone, herbs, wet earth, baking spices, apples and that gnarly, raw pumpkin astringency as the poor things are smashed on  mischief night.  So just for kicks and giggles I made a list of some of my favourite scents:

armpit
st joseph aspirin
basil
celery
puppy feet
fresh dirt
boxwood
cedar
raw pastry dough
dirt
smoke
wet stone
leaf mold
sawdust
fresh mown grass
gasoline out of the pump
a country field—sweet earth and green

ocean brine salinity
moth balls

I was wondering if we are the sum of what we drink? Do I drink the types of wines that I do because I like the above scents?  I suppose I could go into Phenol compounds (derived from grape parts and floating yeasts) that chemically are scents which, as individuals we can recognize.  However, what I'm most interested in, is how we recognize these chemical compounds and then effectively communicate what our beaks are sniffing.  So if I like the above scents, does that mean I'm more likely to like wines that carry those particular phenol compounds?  Let's check out a few:

armpit:  remember the Hubs story?  that's a resounding yes because I love Burgundy.  (Jacques Seysses, owner of Domaine Dujac, speaks of certain Burgundies smelling like a mistresses' armpit.)

gasoline:  I'm getting dizzy just thinking of the myriad of Rieslings I've enjoyed!

smoke: Some Loire Valley (and I haven't met a Valley wine that I didn't like) Sauvignon Gris smell of smoke, just like some Riojas.

basil:  Albarino has a distinct basil quality for me, as does Gruner Veltliner

dirt, puppy feet:  Rhone anyone? Why yes, I do.

I could go on with the rest but I think you get the picture.  Humans can recognize 10,000 different odors. However, no two people sense anything the same.  Does this mean anything?  Well, it could mean that I have a large memory pool so I'm able to match a wine with my scent memory.  Or, it could mean I drink way too much.  Either way, what I do think is that we each of us possess the ability to memory associate, which means a memory locked in our brains will surface sometimes years later due to a particular scent we experience.  Maybe the reason I detest Pinotage is because my father ran me over with his car and all I can remember is the burning scent of rubber as he accelerated.

That's a total fabrication of course, but I suppose that's my point.  I really have no memory of anything that includes rubber, the main scent of that wine, so is that the reason why I don't like it?  I don't know, it's all quite interesting though. 

What wine tastes of St Joseph aspirin?  Time to find out...

Cheers!
Tina

Morales!!! Annefield Vineyards Harvest

I am an Autumn fanatic: just the thought of October gets me all, well, a little crazed.  It's those crisp mornings where you find yourself slipping into your warm fuzzies after months of flippies.  And the east coast big Fall change:  the closet switch.  Isn't it like a birthday or Christmas? Hey, Mr. Red Sweater, it's good to see you.  How's it hanging Macgyver-like khakis--can't wait to do some serious exploring in your sweet, many-pocketed embrace.

So best thing to do on the first of October--Annefield Vineyards Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon harvest! We arrived bright-eyed Saturday morning, a brisk 62 degrees registering on the truck's temperature gauge.  Owners Stephen Ballard and Michael Leary (and dogs) greet the handful of volunteers with coffee and croissant, amid their beautifully restored 1858 Italianate villa house which is absolutely breathtaking.

A car ride down the road and we're off to the vineyard site, tucked inside a cluster of tall trees, birds of prey calls piped in to deter the birds from devouring the grapes. A quick tutorial from the professional crew and it's time to snip--thank the wine gods we brought gloves, otherwise I'd be licking the grape juice off my fingers: that's the stuff alright. As I'm snipping (and trying desperately not to chop off a finger) I'm noticing lots of bumble bees, hornets and harvestmen (daddy long-legs), a sure sign of a healthy vineyard.  Paul Mierzejewski, vineyard consultant for Annefield was on hand of course and he commented about how "good the vines looked" compared to other vineyards around the county.  Could it be because Annefield uses biodynamic methods, namely compost teas which act as innoculating agents against pathogenic organisms.  If those aforementioned good insects are any indication, I certainly think so.


Cabernet Franc cluster

 A brief lunch respite, graciously provided by Stephen and we're back at it--finally finished with our two rows! Man are we slow. We're looking forward to the wine tasting up at the main house.  The 2010 Viognier is stunning! I knew it was a Viognier before my beak hit the glass--honeysuckle, orange blossom, almond paste and a little tobacco.  The palate confirms what my nose knew:  more of the above, a neat backbone of acid, a distinct minerality and a long finish.  Well done.  My other perennial favourite is the 2009 Cabernet Franc--pure raspberry, spice and a delicate whiff of violets.  Tannins are weighty, and the interplay between earthiness, fruit and herbs stands out. 




Annefield Tasting Room

Well, I think six plus hours at Annefield Vineyards is enough, and we say farewell for now, wine-satiated and feeling all around good--there's just a friendly, cozy vibe about the place that makes you want to curl up on a setee.  Goodnight Cooper.

 

Godspeed,
Tina

Wealthy and Narcissistic: Eat Me.

The “Man”
There’s something about this bald man—spicy and dark, colourfully dressed, glistening with sweet secrets—secrets that have helped him manipulate his way through the ages. Who is this plump, yet stick-like man, where did he come from and what does he want?  To find our answers, we start at the beginning…

He has been seen since the Medieval Crusaders brought home a plethora of ingredients that would become his playground:  almonds, citrus fruits, spices and sugars.  Of course these ingredients were too expensive for the common folk so guild craftsmen began crafting elaborate likenesses of rich lords and swarthy soldiers and selling them to these very same lords--wealthy and narcissistic; a perfect match indeed.

Times changed, and eventually those inflated prices decreased and the common folk started making their own.  Practicality being their main tenet, our subject lost his illusions of grandeur and became a simple, more humble creation.  However, this did not stop him.  At around this time the discovery of ginger brought with it new meaning for our man—preservation.  He would last much longer.  As time wound its sultry way, his spicy popularity grew, until we find him at local country fairs.  And of course we find evidence of inevitability:  unmarried women eating “husbands” which meant they then had a good chance of finding flesh and bone--shocking, but true.

We cross the ocean, following our philanderer into the New World, ambitious as ever, cuckolding the housewives and professionals alike into sustaining him forever--yes, the cookie cutter was born.  And with the proliferating cutter came the likely merge:  the “man” and the Christmas tree.  Our subject connects himself with a celebrated holiday by having him festively adorned and lovingly placed on the tree.  He’s practically winking at us.

Is he content for now? What further secrets does he hold and where will we find him next?  No one knows, but that angel may be looking for a new job.


I still like this piece, probably the more sedate out of the revisited bunch. Below is a picture of a book jacket that I snapped last weekend in Richmond (delicious, fun-filled post to follow.)

What wine to drink with munched cookie?  Coffee.

Cheers!
Tina

More late night finds...Basil is Sexy!

Oh Basil, My Basil

So now what?  You’ve made the pesto and you’ve eaten about as much as you can of caprese salad.  You want more of your home-grown perfection, but you’re having doubts as to what to do with it.  Look no further, because dessert has arrived and basil is the star.

With more than 150 species of basil, the most widely known is of the species Ocimum basilicum or sweet basil.  For me, basil’s fragrance is incredibly earthy and sexy.  Picture The Wizard of Oz and the scene where Dorothy and friends are running through a field of wildflowers—now change those flowers to a valley of basil and all of its many colours and sizes:  pale to deep greens, cabernet reds, and patches of golden sun with small leaves and large ones too.  And as I’m running and jumping, I release scents of mint, clove, anise, cinnamon, and citrus, all vying for my attention as I slowly lay down in my bed of sweetness, sleepy and satiated...Only wake me when it’s time to bake!

When preparing basil for desserts, it’s important to remember that basil bruises easily—turning black if handled too much.  After washing the leaves, dry them thoroughly with paper towels.  The preferred way to cut basil is to tear it into smallish pieces with your hands.  To get these pieces even smaller, stack 5 – 6 leaves together, and gently roll into a tight bundle and with a very sharp stainless steel knife, slice into thin strips, called chiffonade.  From this point, mincing is just a few knife strokes away.

Basil and Citrus Sorbet
4 cups loosely packed basil leaves, washed and torn
1 ½ cups water
1 ½ cups sugar
½ cup light corn syrup
1 ¾ cups organic lemon juice

Combine first four ingredients in a medium-sized saucepan and bring to a boil.  Cook three minutes or until sugar dissolves.  Remove from heat and chill.  Strain mixture through a sieve, pressing basil with a wooden spoon to remove as much liquid and goodness as possible.  Discard basil.  Mix basil syrup with lemon juice.
Pour syrup into an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer’s instructions.  Spoon sorbet into a glass container, cover and freeze at least one hour or until firm.  Remove from freezer and let sit for 10 minutes before service.  Garnish with flowering basil sprigs.
Yield:  5 servings, 1 cup each

 Basil Butter Cookies
1 cup softened unsalted butter
½ cup sugar
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 ½ cups sifted all purpose flour
1 cup loosely packed basil leaves, washed and minced
¾  teaspoon salt
½ cup sanding sugar
Put butter and sugar into the bowl of an electric mixer and mix until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes.  Add yolks and vanilla scraping the bowl.  Add flour, salt and basil and mix on low speed just until incorporated.
Divide dough in half and shape each into a log.  Roll logs on sheets of parchment to 1 ½ inches in diameter, pressing a bench scraper into the parchment to make tight, even rolls.
Wrap in plastic and freeze until firm, about 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 350.  Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.  Roll logs in sanding sugar and slice to ¼ inch thick.  Arrange 1 ½ inches apart on baking sheet.  Bake until edges are just golden, 20 – 22 minutes.  Transfer to wire racks and cool.
Yield:  About 4 ½ dozen

Sublime Strawberry-Basil Sundaes
1 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon organic honey
1 cinnamon stick
1 bay leaf
½ cup loosely packed basil leaves, washed and minced
2 pints ripe strawberries
1 quart vanilla ice cream
Basil butter cookies
Bring balsamic vinegar, honey, cinnamon stick and bay leaf to a slow simmer and continue to cook until syrupy.  It will reduce considerably.  Cool to room temperature. 
Wash and slice strawberries and place in a bowl with the syrup and basil.  Mix to combine and marinate for 10 minutes.
In coffee cups or sundae glasses, add a scoop of ice cream then drizzle on strawberry basil mixture.  Garnish with basil butter cookies.
Yield:  7 servings

I wrote this piece for an online food magazine eons ago and I still use these recipes today.  So feel free to use these time-tested recipes, especially the basil butter cookies--deliciousness!

In fact, I just found a Patrick Bottex "La Cueille" Bugey Cerdon Rosé, which is somewhat of an odd little sparkler from Savoie in Eastern France.  Made with 80% Gamay and 20% Poulsard it's low alcohol 8% and light sweetness of strawberries and raspberries make it a nice accompaniment to the desserts above.

Cheers!
tina

Cheers!
Tina